- $450 hanging hardware
- $350 wood
Step 1: Mounting the Hardware
Our biggest dilemma was how to mount doors for the closet. Normally there's a solid wall with a hole for a door, and sliding/barn doors are mounted to the wall. We instead had just a gaping open space in our bedroom. Our options were to (a) build a structurally-sound short header "wall" at the ceiling the whole length of the room and mount the doors to the "wall," or (b) hang the doors from the ceiling.
We went with (b), but unfortunately our rafters ran parallel to the plane of the doors, and of course, we wanted the doors about smack dab in the middle of the rafters. We mounted 2"x4"s between the rafters in the ceiling to bolt the doors into.
Finding ceiling-mounted barn door hardware is difficult, and the moment you add the term "barn door," prices jump 3x. We found the best deal on Amazon for these kits that included the black powder-coated mounting L-brackets, pulley rollers for the door, end stoppers, floor guides, and all nuts/bolts for $100 each. We got 5ft rail lengths, so we needed 4 kits--anything longer than a single 5ft rail was cost prohibitive. 5-stars for their customer service. The rolling is very smooth and quiet! Cast iron handles were $14 on Amazon.
We got a Philips Hue Lightstrip with a motion detector, which works beautifully. No need to run power to recessed lights or figure out where to run a lightswitch. You program the Hue Lightstrip via smartphone app to set the "on" color (any number of thousands of LED colors), the timeout to turn off after last motion is detected, whether you want a different color based on time of day (e.g. you can set a red nightlight from 10pm-7am rather than bright white). The range of the Philips Hue motion detector is quite large and we found it best to angle it away from the door toward the inside as shown in the pic.
We mounted a 6" MDF baseboard, painted the same as our creme wall color, behind the rear track using L brackets to the ceiling (the MDF isn't attached to the rails) to prevent light leakage out the top, make it look cleaner, and mount the lightstrip to.
Finally, we installed soft close sliding door mechanisms so the center doors catch and pull shut softly.
Step 2: Making the Center Weathered Barn Doors
The center doors were made using a sheet of 5/8" plywood for the backing. We found pre-weathered boards from Home Depot that came in a pack of a variety of colors for the facing boards.
Step 3: Making the Side Doors
The side doors are relatively simple and plain, and painted the same flat creme color as the rest of the room. They consist of a border of 2"x6" lumber with cedar paneling in the center.
Sidenote: Our side and center doors overlap by about 1.5", so there's no gaps between the doors, and it prevents light leakage. Take any overlap into account when calculating the width of your doors.