Climbing Beta: Snow Canyon State Park, UT

If you’re in Southern Utah, it’s not to be missed.

Snow Canyon Park doesn’t get as many climbers’ attention as the nearby Moe’s Valley or St. George climbing, but it’s a gorgeous camping destination with an easy drive to all climbing crags. It’s a 5-star camping location, in the top 5 camping locations we’ve ever been.

snow at snow canyon state park, UT

Cost

Camping runs around $15-$20/night, sometimes plus entrance fees to put it at $30 a night, so it’s not cheap, but we like supporting state and federal parks.

Camping

The campsites are impeccable, each far enough away from each other that you really do feel isolated with your own private back yard. Each site backs up against the side of the canyon walls.

There’s very clean bathrooms and showers–like the rest of Utah, Snow Canyon was incredibly clean and well-maintained.

snow at snow canyon state park, UT
Looking down at our campsite from the canyon walls.
snow canyon state park, UT at night
Same view in the dead of night with a long exposure!
snow canyon state park, UT petroglyphs
Petroglyphs at the campsite. You can check the ranger’s station to find out which site #!

Hiking

The canyon starts off with the iconic sandstone red rock found in the area. Canyon walls range from near vertical, darkened patina rock to rolling red marshmallows you can scramble across. There’s sand dunes, slot canyons, lava tube caves, red and white rock, and climbing in the park.

There’s day hikes for days–you can drive up the canyon and stop to hike along the rolling canyons and even hike down into lava tubes. It’s spectacular and gorgeous.

Honestly, Moe’s Valley and Chuckawalla aren’t the most scenic climbing areas. There’s no comparison to Snow Canyon in terms of beauty and hiking, and if you’re in the area to climb, you should camp or spend a day hiking in Snow Canyon Park.

snow canyon state park, UT view from entrance
View from the start of the canyon driving in.
snow canyon state park, UT
View along the drive up the canyon.
snow canyon state park, UT lava tubes
Descending into lava tubes.
snow canyon state park, UT
View from a day hike!
snow canyon state park, UT
Gorgeous fingers of red rock. The lava tubes are in the bottom right.

Climbing in Snow Canyon State Park

There’s no shortage of climbing in the canyon, and the ranger’s station has far more resources than you’ll find online. There’s a couple hundred established routes, about equally split sport vs trad, and quite a few bolted multipitch.

Much of the rock is soft sandstone like the St. George area, covered by black patina. The movement on rock is great, but prepare to break holds or have some sandy smears.

rock climbing in snow canyon state park, UT

The Richness of it All 5.12a Bolted Multipitch

  • Pitch 1: 5.2 ramp
  • Pitch 2: 5.11a.  There was one move at the beginning that was V4/11.d-ish if you’re under 5’5”.
  • Pitch 3: 5.12a.  Big flake broken off with a bail biner. V6/12d-ish moves for a bolt. Would be difficult to pull through in the middle of the pitch. Techy to figure out.
  • Pitch 4: 5.11c
  • Pitch 5: 5.11c spiraling arete. Absolutely amazing and worth the whole climb. Midway you do a mantle onto a point with nothing but 400 feet of air below you. But I did pull out an 18”x6” rock.
snow canyon state park, UT climbing richness of it all 12a
The 5 pitches with bolted anchors.
snow canyon state park, UT rock climbing
Roping up at the start.
snow canyon state park, UT climbing richness of it all 12a
Last pitch, an amazing spiraling arete with mantle into clean air.
snow canyon state park, UT climbing richness of it all 12a
Top anchors.
snow canyon state park, UT climbing richness of it all 12a

While the climbing isn’t world-class itself, the views area, and sometimes you just need to climb and enjoy the views.


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